Winemaker Mark Nicholl’s William Rose & Bootlegger Wines

I recently spent the afternoon with Australian born winemaker, Mark Nicholl – winemaker for the popular south Willamette Valley’s Sweet Cheeks Winery, and owner/winemaker of his own label, William Rose Wines. After Mark gave me an incredible tour of the winery at Sweet Cheeks, including sampling 2012 futures of Sweet Cheeks and William Rose wines taken straight from the tanks, barrels, and test bottles, Mark offered me samples of each of his four current releases wines from his William Rose label: 2011 Prohibition Rose, 2011 Müller Thurgau, 2008 Barbera Syrah, and Bootlegger Wines Demon Bird Red Table Wine.

With labels that boast a rendition of a 1930’s prohibition era car, I was curious about the story behind the name and the label that Mark had chosen for his own line of wines.

“William Rose. William is my middle name, Rose is my wife’s middle name. I’m well aware that people want a story and a sense of place when they drink a wine. I don’t own a winery, and I don’t own a vineyard, so what am I going to do? I’m going to make something up. William Rose is a fictitious bootlegger, who drives around the countryside in his 1930’s Bentley, called Demon Bird.” Mark continued, “the back labels have stories on them – a little bit of fun. I’m sort of thinking maybe the labels should have a little more wine information on there for the consumer that is inquisitive, but my attitude to wine is it’s a drink. If you like it, drink it. If you don’t like it, drink something you do like. I just want to convey that sense of fun, and I’m not taking it too seriously. At the moment, I’m just working with parcels of fruit and parcels of wine that I like and enjoy. This is something I like to drink. 

Mark’s motto for his small volume, artisan wines is to deliver wines with expressive fruit and solid structure. After sampling his four current releases, Mark’s motto is certainly showcased through his wine – each wine was, indeed, expressive of the varietal(s) and definitely displayed a solid structure.

~William Rose 2011 Willamette Valley Müller Thurgau ($16): With fruit sourced from the famed Willamette Valley’s Anne Amie Vineyards, this sugar-dry Müller Thurgau definitely showcases a fruity and aromatic profile. Aromas of granny smith apples, peaches and fresh herbs shine through on the palate, and there’s a nice balance between the fruit and the crisp acidity, which is shown on the zesty finish. Light bodied and very refreshing.

~William Rose 2011 Southern Oregon Prohibition Rose – Rosé Table Wine ($15): Made from a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Syrah from the Applegate Valley in Southern Oregon. Prohibition Rose was an actual person, she was the Don of the Portland bootlegging scene during the Prohibition Era. She’s been referenced in documentaries and books, but she disappeared at the end of prohibition and no one knows what her real name was. The Prohibition Rose Rosé is a beautiful peachy-pink-salmon color. Fresh picked strawberries on the nose lead to a semi-dry, crisp palate with similar berry flavors. This wine definitely displays the fruit characteristics of some lighter styled red wines while offering the crisp acidity if a white wine. It’s refreshing, and would be great on it’s own while enjoying a summer day on the patio.

~Bootlegger Wines Demon Bird Red Table Wine ($18): First off, this is a great under $20 dollar find for lovers of big, bold reds. Top notch selection of fruit from Washington state, this blend of Barbera, Tempranillo and Syrah is a fruit bomb – aromas of blackberry, dark chocolate and spice are followed through to the palate where the mouthfeel is juicy, luscious and laden with full-bodied dark berries and plum. I love the well rounded finish, too.

~William Rose 2008 Southern Oregon Barbera Syrah ($30): 50% Barbera, 50% Syrah. Fruit for this beauty was sourced from Southern Oregon, and the Barbera’s high acid is mellowed by the juicy, meaty characteristics of the Syrah- creating a harmonious balance that retains a solid, complex structure. Blackberry, bacon and oak aromas also include a hint of vanilla. On the palate, bright red berry fruit mixed with darker fruit and hints of licorice, along with solid tannins, create a bold and delicious blend that’s true to the varietals characteristics. Unfined, unfiltered, no cold stabilization and very minimal intervention.

Mark Nicholl is an old-world winemaker with new world skills- he recognizes what direction needs to be taken, and decides the most appropriate direction based on the flow of the process as it’s being channeled. Instead of manipulating, he believes in directing.

“You’ve got to let the wine do what it’s going to do – oranges from oranges, lemonade from lemons,” Mark said.

I say, “delicious.”

To order William Rose Wines,  visit the William Rose Wines website. If you’re in the southern Willamette Valley area, check out Eugene Daily News’ Wine Down Eugene for tasting events and happenings in Eugene and surrounding areas. Cheers!